How do I put a false ceiling up?

How would I put a false ceilng up, and how would I put sunk in lights in it.How do I put a false ceiling up?
first and foremost you need a stud finder and some chalk line .


you need to mark out your rafters they are not always the same they tend to move around during construction .


you have about one inch to one and a half inch border around the top of your walls to fasten the drywall to. its important that you marl all of this off be for you start.


decide how low you want your drop ceiling to go and mark it off .


and tack up the bordering to the studs .


you need to mark off were you want your lights to go . allot of people start in one corner me i prefer to start in the middle but this takes allot of measurements and you have to make sure all of your lines flow .


now depending on the size of tiles you are going to use will determine were you hang your wire


you will need allot of wire so buy a big spool it is cheeper this way .


now you need to cut the wire long enough to have some left over . you can always cut off but cant add to .


hang all of the wire from the ceiling rafters then you can hang the spine .


on the spine it is important that it is in uniform so it is a good idea to have a piece of wood to use as a guild .


now the area between the spines you might have to alter unless it comes pre cut .


for future notice if you ever decide to paint the ceiling you need to paint both sides as it will bow if you only paint oneHow do I put a false ceiling up?
In a nutshell...


Start by going around the perimeter with an ';L'; piece. Then lay the main crossbars in, followed by the cross-t's. Put in all the full pieces of tile in first, then the cut pieces.


I'm pretty sure that they make recessed light for drop ceilings, you'll have to double check with your lighting retailer.
It's pretty simple really..





Just put some glue on the ceiling and glue the tiles onto them. For around the light fittings just use a knife to cut the shapes out.
I have installed these in my flat, as my lease didn't allow me to make holes in the original ceiling.





The size of joist you use will depend on how far you need to span - I used 2 x1 inch (deepest part upwards) as it was a bathroom and passageway. Fix length all round at the right level (give yourself the recommended clearance above the ceiling for the lights. Then fix cross pieces in the shortest direction at about 2 foot centres. I also fitted some lttle struts between the old ceiling and the new to allow for hammering.





I then used 3mm plywood across the lot, making sure any joins occured on a batten. This is lighter than MDF and amazingly stiff, and easy enough to cut. Prior to putting it up I primed and filled it whilst it was on the floor and glued some patches of plasterboard where the lights were going to go on the back.





Having added cables for the electric I then closed up the ceiling gluing and pinning as I went taking care to fill the joints between sheets. I then cut holes for the lights and wired them up. Hey bingo - a solid looking ceiling without compromising the original ceiling or adding significantly to the load on structure. You could paint it with fire retardant if that was a concern, but I daresay its no worse than putting paper all over the ceiling.
Ask a building company
you need to buy the L brackets that go around the perimeter walls. install 3 inches down from ceiling, then you can measure to figure out your center unless you dont mind having the ends uneven.install the main braces then the cross braces. attach to existing ceiling or floor joists and install the tiles. if you want to install pot lights you should buy tiles that are firm because the tiles that flex will not support the potlights properly